A vignette I shot in a last remaining, ancient synagogue on the Greek island of Rhodes.
Lucky Number: 26
Was it a dream? I’ve been immersed in completely different cultures, with a big group of people, traveling by plane, van, bus, and boat, throughout Turkey and the Greek Islands.
It sure felt like a dream that I can barely remember. What a pleasant escape from the harsh reality of what’s taking place throughout the USA. We returned just in time for the National Guard to occupy Los Angeles.
But for those 26 days, with those 26 people (who are friends and friends of friends), we toured at least 26 important historical sites. From May 7th to June 1st, we got lost in an ancient world, where we didn’t have to plan or think much, just be present and enjoy the experience.
What a break. I am a lucky person. And 26 is a magic number, as it turns out. Did someone plan that? The number 26 holds various significances in different contexts, including numerology, religion, and even simple geometric observations. While it doesn't have a universally recognized meaning, it's often associated with balance, partnerships, and humanitarian efforts. Numerologically, 26 is seen as a karmic number representing idealistic humanitarianism, cooperation, and diplomacy. All that seems fitting!
Making Art While Traveling
Drawing at my weekly life drawing group is a routine, a community, and a discipline, for over 30 years. Before this trip, I drew our model Lorraine (below). On my iPad, I keep a stock of my abstract paintings handy, which I combine with my figure drawings. A few of these paintings are added here. The photographs were taken on this trip. As we traveled, I pulled out my iPad, and made this.
Lorraine Ascends, mixed media combo with my life drawing, painting, and photography created digitally in 2025.
Our First Days
Istanbul is an ancient, vast, and lively city. There are so many corners to explore, you just can’t see it all. But you can get quite lost, which we did, trying to visit just one more gallery and museum. Fortunately public transportation is good, and some very friendly folks helped us find our way. Traffic is jammed up all day. The city is chock-full of steep streets, many sloping toward the river, as the Bosphorus cuts the city in two. One day we took a sunset river cruise, which is an excellent way to get oriented and see both sides. The Bosphorus, also known as the Strait of Istanbul, is a natural strait that connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and the Mediterranean. It literally separates Europe and Asia.
Turkey has shifted since my last visit, which is close to 10 years ago. Istanbul feels less cosmopolitan and more conservative, with fewer women out and about wearing Western attire. There are more mosques, including historical, multi-religious sites that have been converted back into mosques.
People seemed to be more willing to talk about how it feels to live in a country where they don’t support their leaders. Turkish people can identify with our political situation in the USA. Turkey is not a passive place. On our way to a Haman (bath house, in this case, active since the 1600’s) we walked around a large, peaceful demonstration in support of Gaza. There’s a photo in the slide show of a demonstrator with an Israeli flag that bore a swastika.
I can still hear the frequent call to prayer. You can’t enter a mosque during prayer sessions. And we learned to be ready to visit a mosque any time, since there so many beautiful, historic sites to see. So women need to carry a large head covering and wear long pants. No hats or shorts for men. There are some available to put on though, if you’re not prepared. It’s handy to wear easy slip-on, slip-off shoes, like in Japan. But never lie down in a mosque, as we learned, no matter how tempting the soft, clean carpets are, or how tired you are. Even if the ceiling murals and mosaics look amazing from a floor view.
Returning to the vast Grand Bazaar, with its overflowing stalls of colorful goods, was exciting, but felt different from the first time there, and more sanitized. On the downside, what hasn’t changed enough, is that there’s still cigarette smoking everywhere.
There are just as many cats all around as ever. Many appear to have regular care and look healthy. They’re very friendly. People put out food, water, and shelter for them around town. Why? The Ottomans, like many Muslim societies, revered cats due to their association with cleanliness and their role in Islamic culture. According to Islamic tradition, the Prophet Muhammad had a particular fondness for cats, and this reverence translated into a culture of respect and care for these animals.
I can still taste a fresh-squeezed blood-red pomegranate juice, a warm bagel-shaped sesame bread, called simit, sold on every street corner in a little cart, and stacks of honey-oozing varieties of delicious baklava. I love Turkish food. I can’t wait to make a dinner.
As usual while traveling, I had a Barbie with me. This time, I brought my petite mod doll, Babs, with me, one of my favorite traveling Barbies. She’s in many of my photos and you might have seen her on my Instagram posts.
Overland: Istanbul to Cappadocia and Antalya
From Istanbul we flew to Cappadocia, then rode to Antalya, then headed to the coast, where we boarded boats (which are called gulets) to cruise The Turquoise Coast and visit a few Greek Islands.
May is a transitional month, from spring to summer. Weather shifted from cool and wet to hot, windy, and dry. Many of our group are from from Seattle so they were unfazed by a few intense showers. Fortunately we just missed an earthquake that struck Rhodes after we were there. Familiar as that experience is for those of us in the Bay Area, it’s still terrifying, and so much of this part of the world is built of stone, often ancient, and could simply crumble. This was a 5.8-magnitude earthquake that shook western Turkey and the Greek islands.
On the happy, fun side of the trip we visited with dozens of cats and dogs as we tromped around numerous archaeological sites, toured mosques, churches and a synagogue, dined in fishing villages, shopped in local markets (loved the truck stops!), cooked and danced local-style, tasted regional wines, hiked around rocky carved moonscapes, and were guided through ornate castles and palaces.
We swam and kayaked off the boat while moored in quiet, deep aqua coves. We saw a huge, friendly sea turtle swimming beside us. On the boats we were taken care of by a charming crew of young men. Our knowledgeable, professional Turkish guides (from Eon Tours) were with us throughout, Aydin and Serra, whose leadership made the whole trip both enjoyable and thoroughly educational.
Serra, our archaeologist guide, passionately explained the situation at her own dig site, Aphrodisias, and other sites around Turkey which are currently being modified. We grew to understand the differences between restoration and preservation. She explained her efforts to expose the problem of site development by Turkish government agencies, and her desire to save these important sites, which are surrounded by nature, from possible drastic changes, including adding brand new reproductions, parking lots, and other crass modifications.
Onboard: Along The Turquoise Coast
TRAVEL MOMENTS
So many stand-out travel moments! Our guide, Aydin, brought a barber and a masseur on board for all of us to enjoy! Our good-humored captain took a shine to my Barbie, so she became a parting gift. I did a silly series of Barbie portraits with some of our pals on the trip. Ken, a fellow traveler and stone sculptor, made line drawings of each of us while we posed. Then, on our last night onboard, he hung a portrait show and we had an opening. Gloria, Ken’s partner, who is a professional modern dancer and choreographer, performed an original dance at one of the archaeological sites. Everywhere along the way we were greeted by very large friendly dogs which were usually some version of a Kangal Shepherd Dog. They often adopted us and wouldn’t leave us easily.
When the weather got choppy on the water we had to reroute and change plans – it makes a difference when you’re at sea. We ended up having a bit of extra chill time. We ended our trip with a site I am crazy about: Ephesus was one of the best preserved archaeological sites on this trip and it was my second time there. I especially love its residential quarter, which has been beautifully restored with stairways and and a glass roof so you can look into it from above. It is so intact that you can imagine living there.
Everywhere we went we had to walk up and down slick marble slopes, uneven surfaces, and stairways with no hand rails. I’ve never been so careful, nor so dependent on help from others literally leaning on them while using walking sticks.
OBSERVING SHOPPING
During a couple of our excursions I watched our textile and rug shoppers like we were at a bazaar from another era. We visited a master felter––a personal connection of one of the artists on the trip––who showed us how he makes his hats (traditional tall hats for whirling dervishes and fashionable hats as well) and rugs. In the Grand Bazaar, we sat in a tiny smoke-filled stall, while buying trinkets. The owner was talkative fellow who spoke perfect English.
I don’t shop like I used to, despite the fantastic array of beautiful handmade goods. We are too old and we have too much of everything. That said, we bought some very small, packable items such as nuts, soap, spices, jewelry and scarves.
TRAVEL RITUALS
The morning ritual on the boat consisted of light exercise, swimming, coffee, and a huge healthy breakfast of seasonal fruit, raw tomatoes and cucumbers, yoghurt, white cheeses, olives, warm baked bread, eggs, and fresh squeezed orange juice. I thought I might try this routine at home, but that is as unlikely as all of my other travel resolutions.
Tea – apple or black – always served in small curved glasses – was everywhere and all the time. Mezze were always the first courses for lunch and dinner and delicious.
Napping. Chatting. Reading. I read two historical novels, both set in Turkey, by two Turkish feminist women writers, The Shadow of the Yali and The Last Train to Istanbul. They provided a backdrop and some historical context to the trip, though they were overly romantic for my taste, so neither are top recommendations.
OUR GREEK ISLANDS
A sign that caught my eye in a Symi cafe.
Another sign that caught me eye: “Rend” a moto.
RHODES
The Jewish community in Rhodes dates back to the 2nd century B.C. We returned to Rhodes after almost 10 years, where we re-visited the Jewish community’s last remaining, very ancient synagogue (built in the 12th century, was destroyed during the war between the Turks and the Knights and was rebuilt in the end of the 15th century). It is all that is is left of a large, vibrant Jewish community who, during German occupation, were all transported far away to Auschwitz, only to be murdered.
Interior of the last remaining synagogue of Rhodes.
An elegant brass knocker, with Stars of David, on a door in the Old Town’s Jewish Quarter in Rhodes
The old Jewish neighborhood bears few signs of its former occupants, but I am glad to see that the synagogue is still well maintained. Last time we were there we had a surprising experience. We met a sole, elderly Holocaust survivor, sitting in the temple, who talked about his long, hard life with my husband in Ladino. No such luck this time.
Most historical sites are more organized now then 10 years ago. But sadly, Rhodes was not the friendliest place on our trip. We were “buzzed” by angry motor scooter drivers who (I assume) were indicating their anti-tourism sentiments. Or perhaps they were anti-American?
Cruising into the harbor of Symi, Greece (Dodecanese archipelago), this is what you see.
This is a Turkish gulet. I spent 2 weeks on this boat.
SYMI
Originally an island economy of shipbuilding and sponge diving, this island is now dependent on vacation homes and the tourist trade. It is a charming island, typical of the Greek islands in the region that we visited.
Back to Reality – What’s Next?
I marched across town, from Dolores Park to Civic Center, in SF’s “No Kings” demonstration. I participated in the SFWA Gallery’s June show, Pattern, Shape, and Form. I continue my printmaking work at GAW with Mark Brodie teaching me the ropes.
A panoramic photo I shot in a remote, obscure museum Italy in 2022, on a trip with friends, was curated into the June “Pattern” show at SFWA.
I am working on an exhibition that I am co-curating at Wessling Contemporary, which is a retrospective of paintings by our late friend Randall C. Sexton. It will open on September 4th.
Once again I am co-curating a local group figure show with Catherine Merrill at SCA. The new show is called Drawn from Life, and it is the third year running we will curate a figure show for SCA. Look for upcoming announcements with a press release and a full description including a list of artists and their mediums, plus key event dates.
I just took on a new role on the board of directors of NCWCA as their Professional Development Chair. I’ll be interviewed by Laura Abrams at our next meeting on zoom, July 8th, at 7pm.
I’m still active on Artspan’s Open Studios Outreach Committee. Unfortunately I will be traveling during my Open Studio dates this September, so I’ll have to miss it.
There’s always too much to do here. While I was at the “No Kings” march, I felt warm inside, like I was back with my people. Then I attended an Indivisible meeting, and that reinforced the feeling of being home.
GALLERY OF RECENT HAPPENINGS
Barbara, Jack, and I marched in “No Kings”. Chanting and holding our signs and American flags, we marched from from Dolores Park to the Civic Center. We ran into lots more friends in the crowd of 100,000+.
Downtown is Coming Back
Here’s a recent one-person show at Wessling Contemporary (previously Radian Galleru), at their new downtown location, at 39 Grant Ave. I’m an art consultant with the gallery now.
My friend Deborah Corsini curated a beautiful textile show at the Mills Building, in downtown SF, called What’s Going On?
AROUND THE BAY
I attended a recent reception at the Andra Norris Gallery in Burlingame, and heard Stephen Namara’s talk. I’m such a fan of Stephen’s.
I was invited to a wonderful gala at Sausalito Center for the Arts (SCA), celebrating their birth and endurance. Pictured: Monica Finnegan, Louis Briones, and Shiva Pakdel.
NCWCA member Salma Arastu gave a a tour to members at her fantastic art residency in Emeryville.
Walking out the door of Wessling Contemporary, this lovely person started walking in front of me. Suddenly I felt like it was a yellow gold sun streamed day in mid-June, Union Square, SF.
MEANTIME IN THE MISSION
Mila kirillova at her show of SF Mission paintings now at Mission Bowl, courtesy of the Artspan in the Neighborhoods (AIN) program.
NEW AND OLD WORK
My latest work in progress is using photopolymer and other printingmaking techniques on fabric, in this case, a vintage handkerchief, to make monoprints at GAW.
New friends (just moved to SF), bought a number of my pre-digital drawings at my last Open Studio and sent me a photo of their installation.
BEDSIDE READING
FICTION FIRST
What I just finished reading and what I’m starting, now, as always, is fiction – a good novel. I’ve just read Someone Like Us, by Dinaw Mengetsu, for my book group. I’m glad that I was directed to this book as I might not have found it myself. It’s a strange tale, part mystery, part ghost story, part bio, all very much from an immigrant’s perspective. Timely.
I started reading my friend Erin Van Rheenen’s first published novel (and long awaited), You Could be Happy Here. It’s taking me on a journey deep into Costa Rica with a friend who is on an inward and outward journey herself. I am deeply absorbed in it now. Buy it when it hits the market in September (or pre-order it) and join me at her book talks in The Bay!
BANNED BOOKS
I’m on a mission to read and share banned books. I’ve introduced this idea – of learning more about this alarming situation – to both of my book groups, and I just ordered a couple of books from the top of the list. I love so many Young Adult (YA) books, and they are the major target of book banners. Here’s a list to review for yourself. Don’t be surprised at what you find here. I suggest you share it with friends, and like me, read or re-read as many as you can, to learn what some Americans think is too incendiary for young folks to read about. There’s an important battle underway.
Here’s what I am reading now.
One of the less abstracted drawings you can see in John Goodman’s new book, Sketchbook, 2018-2024.
NONFICTION
Another good friend and art colleague, John Goodman, who hosts my weekly life drawing group, just published a book with Norfolk Press called Sketchbook, 2018-2024. If this sounds literal, it is. What you’re buying is a big black book that looks identical to one of John’s sketchbooks, and for a little extra he’ll add an original drawing to slip into the back pocket. Cool, huh? That’s what I’m doing.
BIG ART SHOWS NOT TO BE MISSED
I returned from my travels to rush to see Bouquets to Art, which was showing at both Fine Arts Museum venues this year, The Legion of Honor and The DeYoung. See it next year – it’s such a fun, floral museum show. Take a good long look at Ruth Asawa’s retrospective, which is at SFMOMA through Sept 2nd. She’s a local hero, which you’ll understand more after experiencing this show. Don’t miss the Wayne Thiebaud exhibition at The Legion of Honor through August 17th. It’s clever because It teaches viewers how his art was made and where his inspiration came from. And it goes far beyond simply viewing a painting of a gorgeous cake or a slab of fish.
Here’s SFMOMA’s magazine cover for this great show. I learned so much about the artist and left feeling truly inspired.
Finding summer sunshine in Petaluma on a perfect evening enjoying dinner with fabulous friends. Life is good.
AUGUST = PRIVATE ART SALE
SAT & SUN, AUGUST 9th & 10th
All of my work will be for sale at reduced prices. I need to make space, clean up, and clean out. Expect an abundance of framed artwork, little books, Barbie art, art cards, small and large prints, pre-digital drawings, new photopolymer prints, and more. My new projects need space.
I’ll be in my studio from 12-5, on Sat-Sun, Aug 9-10. I’ll let you in the front door of the building. Text me at 415.425.3632.
Here’s the front door of the building where my studio is located.
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Art Explosion Studios, 744 Alabama St (btw 19th & 20th), #209, SF, CA
Art Explosion is located across the street from True Laurel and Southern Exposure. We’re right near Lost Resort, Atlas Cafe, Tartine, Heath Ceramics, Muttville, and so much more.
www.cherrypits.net https://theinvisibilitycollective.com/ ALL https://linktr.ee/SusanRKirshenbaum
The Legion of Honor was a new venue for me to see this show. We honed in on several luscious pairings of paintings with floral arrangements. My friend knows all the plants and their Latin names.
A salmon is not just a salmon, a painting by Wayne Thiebaud.
IT’S A WRAP
Recently I met up with an old friend who lives in London, and our only communication has been through this blog. I’m delighted to reach people and maintain long-time friendships through my blog posts. So, keep sending me your event announcements and I will try to attend whatever I can. I’ll be in SF through year-end, except for a couple of short trips. We’re heading to Seattle (August) and Chicago (September) for a few days each. Any hot tips for great art or food in two of my favorite American cities (besides SF) are welcome!
Let’s stay in touch. Drop me a line. So many ways to reach each other! https://linktr.ee/SusanRKirshenbaum
Visit me on Instagram – where I post weekly. https://www.instagram.com/srkirshenbaum/
Browse my shop to order my artwork on print-on-demand clothes, soft goods, and hard goods of all sorts! https://www.redbubble.com/people/Srkirshenbaum/shop?asc=u
MY STUDIO AT ART EXPLOSION
Visit me in my studio, #209, at Alabama Street Art Explosion Art Studios!
Note that I’ll miss AE and Artspan Fall Open Studios due to an out town family event, so stop by when you can, or join me at my Private Studio Sale August 9-10. I’ll be serving drinks and snacks while showing process demos. There’s plenty of free street parking and nearby spots to drink, dine, or shop before or after my studio visit.
WHAT’S ON MY (VIRTUAL) EASEL?
Work in progress with a new (to me) model.
More new work in progress.
